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Poisonous plants:
(Copied from the net. I haven't tried any to prove
or disprove any of the list, just prefer to stay on the safe side. Remember pups want to taste everything.)
Amaryllis,
Azalea, Bleeding heart, Caladium, Clematis, Daffodil, Daphne, Dieffenbachia, English Ivy, Foxglove, Holly, Iris, Mistletoe,
Morning Glory, Narcissus, Oleander, Philodendron, Poinsettia, Potato, Rhondendrun, Rubber plant, Tobacco, Tulip, Weeping Fig
& Yew.
I keep a spray bottle of water near where I like to sit. If a pup gets interested in something I don't
want him to, I squirt him. Things like tasting the corner of the coffee table or sofa. (Put my plants out of reach.) The spray
bottle is set at a long stream so it only takes 1, maybe 2 squirts of water on his hind end- depending on my aim. HIND END
- never the face! This way I don't have to yell no or leave it. Leave it training comes later and I would never want him to
think his name is no or that I am angry with him. He just turns around to where he is wet in the rear end and looks at it.
That is usually enough of be a distraction to stop the behavior that I don't want. If he needs any more to satisfy his teething
or curiosity, then I know I need to produce a toy and play with him. A puppy's world is a happy world. He should hear an excited,
"good boy", every time he does something that makes me or you happy and that is what he will strive to continue through the
years!
Feeding:
I feed my puppies, Innova Puppy. (sold at my local True Value or you can look at their
site for a distributor near you.) I also use Canidae after the young puppy stage and for adults. If that is not
available near you then I also like Flint River (delivered to your door factory fresh.)
The reason is because I spent
hours and hours reading labels and information and comparing brands. You can do the same with a Google search on dog food
comparisons if you want to.
some links are provided on the bottom of the link page.
The main consideration is, For a dog to live a long healthy life, he needs
quality food. That's it in a nut shell.
I feed my family and myself good food and my poodles are part of my family.
So I spend more on quality food and less at the Pharmacy and the vet.
A few other very interesting things I have read-
Dogs do not digest corn. (Actually a lot of humans don't digest it well either.) It may be cheap to put into a dog food as
a filler- but I don't want to fill them up- I want to feed them nutritious food. Dogs are mainly carnivores = meat eaters
(well, they were before they became house pets,) - given a choice a dog won't eat beets either!
Read the dog food
small print label- if Corn or beets is in the first third of the list- do you really want to feed him that?
They do
like and eat vegetables- the same ones I like! They have a fondness for orange veggies like carrots and baked squash &
pumpkin.
If I give veggies like peas and beans then I make sure I smash with finger or fork, each one, so that it
does not get caught in the windpipe or esophagus. I also cut up fruits like apples into tiny pieces and they eat every bite!
A breeder should tell you what the puppy has been eating and is used to- better yet- some give a zip lock bag of the
food like I do to give the puppy a familiar start. If you plan to change the food the puppy is used to, then it is best to
add a little bit more of the new at each meal, introducing it gradually to the familiar food.
If you are getting an
adult dog that has never eaten natural foods before- he might not be able to digest it without stomach upset or gas on his
tummy from the enzymes. If you find your dog is passing gas or seems to have an upset tummy, then you can give him remedies
made for infants or even people- the dosage is the tricky part, so best to phone the vet.
I feed my dogs 3 times a
day. Yes, it is standard and expected to give pups 3 meals a day- but the dog food bags then say to split the Daily portion
into 2, then down to one feeding a day as he is about a year old. I don't plan to argue about it. Just telling you what I
do. Since I eat 3 meals a day so do my dogs and I personally think it is easier on their digestion and energy levels. My opinion.
I also give treats in between meals for training and just because I love them. My choice of treats and times. I also
give "people food", not table scrape, not fat and not things I wouldn't eat. It is what I save from making dinner or off my
plate. They are not allowed to stare or beg. They know it is coming and pretend to be asleep until I am ready to call them
in front to sit. This is one of my training times.
It was easy to train to not stare or beg with a stop sign hand
placed between their line of vision to my eyes. Poodles are very intuned to eye contact with their people and when it is broken
by my raised "stop sign" hand, even from across the room they catch on quick.
Never feed onions or chocolate to a dog.
Physical care:
Poodles need brushing & grooming. If you have to hire a groomer at about six week
intervals there isn't much to do in between. Watch the eyes, because if tearing starts it may mean something is in his/her
eye irritating it. Their eyes are similar to ours and if a hair or piece of foreign debris gets on the eye ball or under the
lids, it will irritate them and the natural reflex of the body is to create tears to wash it out. I use a sterile saline solution
to wash the eye off. It is sold at any pet store. To remove the tear stains, start by washing the area off with a wash cloth,
warm water and a dab of puppy shampoo. Careful not to get it in the eyes. Once the area has dried, you can carefully clip
off any long hairs that are holding the stain or debris with a small pair of scissors. This is a good thing to do because
if left there, it can collect bacteria. Keep in mind that they are as sensitive to the eye area as we are and you will want
to build a bond of trust to get him to hold still and allow you to do this. I find a lot of petting and praise and a treat
after wards, makes them feel happier about it. The pet stores do carry an assortment of products to remove tear stains on
light colored dogs. When I need to use one, I prefer the pre-moistened pads over the squirt bottles with a cotton ball, because
it is easier to control wiping in that small area.
Baths:
With or without a professional groomers schedule, you may want to bathe your pup or
poodle in between the schedule. Rainy, muddy days happen. My mini poodles fit right in the kitchen sink where I am most comfortable.
Better than bending over the bath tub. I get my supplies gathered first, like puppy/dog shampoo & conditioner, towels
and a hair dryer and brushes. Outside potty break first. I have the sink half filled first with a drop of the shampoo and
test the water temperature the same way I did for my babies with my elbow. A dogs temp is a little higher than ours at 101
degrees so I make it warm but not uncomfortable to my elbow or wrist. Hands are accustom to a wider range of temps, so don't
trust your hands, especially if you hand wash dishes.
If your dog lives on the furniture with you and goes outside, then
you might want a weekly or maybe an as needed bath.
If I am giving a grooming bath, then I will brush out the coat first
because any tangles will turn into mats that are harder to brush out after they have gotten wet. Some books tell you to put
cotton balls in the ears. I tried it. It doesn't work. It irritates the dog and draws the water into the cotton balls making
the inside of the ears wet. We don't want the ears wet on the inside because that is even more irritating to the dog and can
cause ear infections that prompt the need to see a vet. I start with a plastic cup of my warm soapy water poured over the
neck area working my way back toward the tail to wet the coat, saving the ears and head for last. This is more relaxing to
start this way for both of us. The coat is kind of water resistant and then saving the head & ears for last, holds off
that shake. Once the head & ears are wet, they will want to shake. I hold the head and nose tipped downward and then ears
outward to get all wet. Shampoo and then rinse off with the sprayer, never taking a hand off from his/her head where they
can feel it, so they don't shake water on me. I drop the sprayer and wipe the hair back off his/her face and gently squeeze
the ear hair of excess water with both hands. I stay dryer and the mop is next to me for the floor. We aren't done yet, because
the body and legs need another rinse. Any soap residue left behind can & will irritate the skin. Good conditioners will
make long hair brush out easier and is usually rinsed back out. I use my hands to rub excess water downward and one hand always
stays on the dog so they don't shake on me. The other hand reaches for the towel. Best to lay it lengthwise with the dog and
a 2nd towel crossway and pick up and hug. I pick up, wrap towels around and hug close to my body before they can shake. Then
I praise and uncover the face. Small detail, I like to walk around the room a bit, giving the towels a chance to absorb while
I get to cuddle my bundle of funny looking, feet up, poodle. Eventually setting the poodle down in the middle of the room,
feet down and whisking off the towels in one swoop as I jump back avoiding that inevitable shake fallout from landing on myself
or the furniture! If you have more than one poodle loose, like I do, you will find they all have to come and smell the freshly
bathed poodle. Scent is all important to them. If you only have one, then make it fun for that one. Laugh! They look funny.
Throw a toy. My poos love to run around and it helps loosen the hair and dry them a bit. Not to much, the hair will dry wavy.
Yes hair, not fur. Poodles have hair. As soon as he/she goes to lay down, that is the cue to pick up and go to the blow dryer.
Your hair dryer will work fine. Just keep it moving so as to not burn the skin in one spot. If he/she seems irritated then
turn it down or off and start brushing. Brush and blow dry and brush again. Your baby will be so soft and fluffy and sweet
smelling. Do not let your baby out side if it is cold until you are sure he/she is dry.
Ear care:
Hair usually grows inside a poodles ears. If you go to a professional groomer, they
will remove this and clean the ears for you. Although there are some differing schools of thoughts on it, some vets think
it is ok to leave it natural, others don't.
Examine the ears and watch your poodle. If he/she scratches or has dirt or
a wax build up or a bad smell then you must clean or have them cleaned. First long hairs are pulled. There is a powder and
tweezers available at pet stores. There is also a wet cleaner (pet stores) for cleaning the wax & dirt with cotton balls
& or cue tips. Both have directions on the bottles for the brands chosen. There is also a dryer in a bottle available.
Never leave the inside of the ears wet.
Teeth:
Puppies lose their "baby" or milk teeth and get new adult teeth just like children
do. Don't think about a tooth fairy pillow because you aren't likely to find the lost tooth.
Poodles and most breeds of
dogs benefit from having their teeth cleaned just like we do. There are dog tooth pastes and brushes etc; on the market for
this. Do not use human tooth paste. Cleaning begins after the adult teeth have come in (in my opinion because those baby teeth
are just too sharp). It can be started with just the special dog paste on your finger, rubbing it on to their teeth. They
are flavored so the dogs like it. If you don't take the time to "brush" your dogs teeth, than an annual visit to the vet for
professional cleaning is advisable. Without dental care a dogs teeth are susceptible to the same bacteria, diseases, decay
and tooth pain & loss as we are. Crunchy foods and biscuits help with the tarter. Soft or wet foods stick to the teeth,
just like us.
Nails:
A professional groomer will take care of the nails for you. If you miss an appointment
or don't have a groomer, than you will need to trim the nails. First thing to do is look closely for the blood veins. Poodles
nails grow long and their are blood veins inside of the nails. Have Quick stop steptic powder next to you before you start.
If the nails are colored (not clear) then hold a flash light to see the blood veins. Try to trim the nail just below the blood
vein, meaning do not cut the blood vein. If you do cut into the vein it will bleed. Dunk the nail into the quick stop and
do not proceed until the bleeding stops. Dogs that walk with you on pavement won't need their nails cut as much as one that
doesn't because that keeps them a bit shorter. A file or small hand held rotary sander will buff off any rough or sharp edges.
Notes:
Pups and dogs need things to chew on. There is a wide variety available on the market.
My experience is only give raw hide bones when you are watching and remove them when you leave the room, even for a minute.
The reason is small pieces can be chewed off and choked on. They do need to chew and they do love the raw hides but if you
give it be prepared to not only take it away but also to put your fingers in the dogs mouth to remove the pieces. I have read
stories about dogs needing surgery to remove rawhide pieces stuck in the intestines.
The flavored nylabones are preferred over the unflavored by the dogs, again watch for small pieces.
The greenies, I had thought were good, from reading the advertisements, until I found the green diarrhea and later read
of other pet owners stories about small pieces getting caught in the esophagus or intestines and their dogs needed surgery,
not all dogs lives saved. Your choice, I won't buy them any more.
Toys with ropes. Advertised as good for their teeth. Dogs love them. I had a bad experience with them. Thought I had watched
them playing carefully. One fine day I saw one of my poodles pooping and the little poop balls were hanging from his butt
by a little string. He looked so uncomfortable and embarrassed so I went close to help him out. I pulled the string gently
and pulled and pulled. Oh my gosh, it was a string pulled out of a braided rope toy a couple of feet long! I gathered up 6
of those toys, none looked unraveled or loose but threw them all in the trash anyway. I keep seeing those toys in the stores
and have to remind myself that it only takes one of the strings to come loose and be swallowed.
Congs are safe. They have a nice unpredictable bounce and are most appealing with something inside. They come in different
colors & sizes & shapes. The stores offer different flavors but you can also add in your own recipes like peanut butter
or cheese whiz or whatever you want to try. They are dishwasher safe too!
Tennis balls are lots of fun to play fetch with up until your dog lays down to chew the fuzzy stuff off. Either distract
him or discard the ball. They aren't expensive, so you can buy lots of them for times when you want to start new games of
fetch.
Plastic frisbees, without decals or loose pieces, are fun. Even laying still on the floor becomes a challenge for a pup
to pick up and carry. Try different sizes of plastic or rubber balls.
Squeaky toys, plastic or soft sculpture are favorites. The squeaker adds excitement to the game, retrieve or chase. Just
watch when the pup grows into an adult with stronger jaws because he/she will chew to kill that darn squeaker! Time to discard
it before he/she swallows the tiny pieces and get a new toy.
We have a toy box filled with an assortment of toys and yes, the old or damaged get discarded and new ones added. Even
if they are outside when I quietly add a new toy, they will smell it and go right over and pick out the new toy right away.
I love giving new toys and watching them play.
I did read in books that you should not give a puppy or dog an old sock to play with because they can't tell the difference
between a new sock and an old one. But I also remembered the fun my poodle & my parents poodle had with an old sock. So,
I broke that rule. In the back of my sock drawer were some knee high socks that I hadn't touched in years. I put a knot in
each end and let them play. Ok, so I can't leave my socks that I wear on the floor. It is worth it for all the games of tug
of war we have had. Very fun. I did also read about the reason to not do this is because it makes a dog aggressive. My experience
is they have a play growl while playing, it is not the same as a mean warning growl nor does it lead to mean or aggressive
behavior. I'm only telling you what I do, not telling you to do the same. I also watch those socks for when they begin to
get chewed on and they also get discarded just like anything else I deem as unsafe for play.
Basically, it boils down to most toys can be fun for awhile, but you need to watch for the moment when it becomes unsafe,
so it can be removed from play to keep your pet safe.
Crate:
Pups play hard for awhile, then like babies, need a nap. Put him/her to bed. His/her
crate is a safe bed because dogs are den animals and you will know right where he/she is when he/she wakes up. A crate should
not be used as a punishment or a prison. You want him to feel safe there.
A crate is also the best way to travel with
your pet. In the event of an accident it will keep him safe. If you have to brake hard the crate will keep him from flying.
Imagine a simple fender bender. What if the car door pops open and your pet becomes excited or disoriented and runs into oncoming
traffic? Or what if Police assistance is needed and a Police officer needs to take your pet to safety? An officer will grab
the handle of a crate without hesitation and easily place your pet in a safe location.
List of things to have:
Quality food.
Water bowl. Steel or ceramic type bowls for feeding, that won't
allow bacteria growth.
Pin brush, slicker brush, metal comb, scissors.
Clippers (electric &/or battery) if you
wish to shave.
Puppy shampoo, later adult shampoo and conditioner.
Dog toothpaste and finger or tooth brush.
Collar,
leash, crate and or bed.
Toys to play with and to chew on.
Treats
Optional:
Quick stop steptic powder & nail clippers.
Ear powder & cleaner.
Saline
solution/ eye wash, tear stain remover.
Coat or sweater.
Pads or newspaper for inside.
Water bottle to put on
crate.
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